They are more versatile, easier to work with, and they are much better for your barbells. Picking a power rack… it's overwhelming, right? Too many compromises and there’s no guarantee that she’ll stick with it lol. That’s how people typically make smaller racks into a two-station unit and share it. You can paint it before its all bolted, or after, it was too cold for me to paint so I'll have to paint it in the spring. I haven't seriously lifted for probably 3 years, so I'll be just squatting the bar for a while haha. Maybe I would miss that. Great site by the way! I regularly do pull-ups with very little rack movement. I can’t believe nobody talks about this issue with the Monster/Monster-lite racks. match them up fairly close. I don’t miss being inside the rack at all. It stresses me out a bit having to make a decision without having a Rack/Squat Stand/half-Rack ever seen, touched or tried. Be the first to receive exciting news, features, and special offers from! And you can rest assured that the Rogue R-3 is worth every penny. Due to shipping consolidation I went with the OH bar. I like the 2×3 clearance vs. the 3X3 RML uprights. Measure twice and cut once, so try and get the marks as centered as you can. The feet extend as far as the arms (further actually, I believe), so you can’t tip it even if you have weight on the ends of the spotters. What do you think about it? So unless you plan on driving your truck into your power rack at 60 mph, I think you’ll be fine with 2″x3″. You can come further away still if you feel like you’re going to knock your head against the wall getting under the bar for squats. I use the multi-grip bar (yellow) for those. At the end one can say the R3 has a smaller footprint, but the S-2 (HR-2) don’t need to be anchored and gives you the plate storage option in case of the HR-2. Try not to piece meal things together from an SML-2. power rack, You can also order the standard R3 as a “shorty” version; it’s 84″ tall versus 90″. The one drawback here is that the holes aren't numbered, which is slightly annoying trying to line up the safeties and J-hooks. Or use a platform…that works too. They are more versatile, easier to work with, and they are much better for your barbells. For me the “R-3 Strap Safety System” looks quite interesting and it should be “very silent in use” (neighbors)? I’m going to say close to never. Big supporter of the HR-2 with plate storage. Neither of those will allow one person to work in while the other is out.. not comfortably anyway. Hello John, I’m sure that’s not a deal breaker for most people, but it’s worth mentioning. Heck, you even stated if you were to do it all over again, you would have went with the HR-2 from the get-go, right? I personally own the bolt-together version and I'll make my full case for it below. But i cant see myself squatting within a 16 in space haha! That thing is the worst. Planning to pick up a new rack on Black Friday. Plate storage is not practical because of the interior depth. Straps are probably a waste of money unless you just are used to using them and like them. Regards, So unless you're Big Ray Williams, this rack should be completely suitable for you. I move things there from time-to-time in order to recycle gear and I find it to be a nightmare and a half. I haven’t had any issues, but I’d be more concerned having it bolted into a platform rather than the floor itself like what you’re talking about. I’m curious about the stability of those different options. To be fair, pin & pipes are fairly common out of the box across many manufacturers. And don't say that it's too thick for pull-ups, fatter bars increase your grip and forearm strength so thank me later when you've got beefcake forearms. All that said, my advise is stick with your original plan and either work out separately, or choose your exercises in such a matter where one is on the rack, one is off (deadlifts, chins, cleans, rows, etc.) To be frank, I was able to recoup 95% of what I paid for everything. The HR-2 is probably what I’d own if it hadn’t been so easy for me to convert my R4 down into that R3/Half rack thingy I have now. I’m leaning heavily toward the R3 rack for my own garage gym, but I’m wondering if you ever considered a W4 rig? I wanted an HR-2 to replace the giant waste of space R4, but it just seemed wasteful to me to replace all these perfectly good rack components that I had – so I just bought the 24″ cross-members and reused everything else. Power cage, I’m of the opinion that anything other than a 6-upright king rack (like an R6) or a rack with horizontal legs (HR-2 or flat foot units) needs to be anchored. That is, I could set J-cups both inside the rack and outside the rack and work two exercises without having to move bars, weights, J-cups, etc. It's a slight annoyance that I didn't want to deal with. Which kind of Collars do you use? Make sure that hole goes straight in, not at an angle. The prices will be at the beginning of the material section. I was just curious because I tend to forget about Troy (admittedly I tend to judge companies based on their barbell quality). Just preference. If you need more room, get the bolt-on version with a 30″ depth. But keep in mind that you truly get what you pay for here. Assembly is very easy, although I would recommend two people. The holes have no numbers, which can be slightly cumbersome when lining up safeties, j-hooks, etc…. But the following Infinity accessories are what I purchased for my rack since they will work with how I've designed it, and since I designed it to have a 1-1/2" pipe pull-up bar I think most people will be satisfied with that. And because of protruding legs and the space it need rather not a HR-2? It may feel small at first, but 24″ is more than enough space. take a RML-390F, but w/ 24” depth option, like the RML-390BT. However, I still feel the need to customize. Awesome to hear it’s worked out so well for you. Thanks! PS: I'll be sure to post links to pictures of my rack as is, it's not painted, but then everyone can see that it is possible. A HR-2 Half Rack can’t be used from two persons at the same time. You don’t have to anchor these types of racks, but I was okay with anchoring if it meant no long legs., (1) 1-1/2" Standard Steel Pipe @ 40" length, (2) 3" Standard Steel Pipe @ 40" length (2" is fine, just not as strong), Bosc Hole Saw Pilot Head (Needed to connect hole saw) $~12, (24) 5/8" Steel (All thread, or half threaded) Bolts $~48, (24) 5/8" Steel Washers (I bough in boxes of 24 one for each side of the bolt) $~12, Paint and primer of your choice (I suggest liquid paint, but spray paint would be fine) $Depends on brand but around $25. This is actually one of the main reasons why I chose the bolt-together version. After I was looking on your special R3 Half Rack-photo above again, I’ve got it. So really, best case is to place the R3 in the middle of your area, anchor it down, and only use cups – no spotters.


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